Sunday, June 22, 2014

Rhine Getaway, Day 2

Kinderdijk, Holland

               
                The Viking Gullveig sailed during the night.  We were pleased that a river boat is so smooth that we could feel no seasickness or ripples at all.  The ship moved at about eight miles per hour, on average, during our journey up the Rhine.  We were surprised that the Rhine is such a busy working river.  Large industrial barges passed every few minutes, carrying loads of chemicals, fuel, minerals, scrap metal, and all sorts of other products.  We were also surprised to see the river was busy with the traffic of many pleasure boats and cruise ships similar to ours.  I don’t think I have ever seen a river in the United States that had so much boat traffic, not even the mighty Mississippi.

                On the morning of Saturday, June 7, we were docked in Kinderdijk, home of a large number of Dutch windmills.  We walked along the large dike and heard our guide explain the process of pumping out water to drain and reclaim land that is well below sea level.  The many windmills were operational, but they no longer pump water.  That job is now done with much more powerful coal fired electric power plants.  We were impressed with the size of the beautiful mills.  I learned that in a former day, the miller and his wife and family of 10-12 children lived inside each mill.  In fact, so many children lived in the area, that the millers named it Kinderdijk.  Even today, adventurous renters may lease a windmill for the summer and live inside.  We toured a mill and climbed the steep narrow stairs.  The families learned to use the limited space very efficiently.  We learned that the millers used a method of communication that involved moving the huge blades of the mill into certain positions to indicate news to the distant millers.  One position showed good news – births, marriages, etc.  Another indicated a death or serious illness.  Yet another indicated the time to co-ordinate the timing of the pumping. 

                We discovered the mechanisms of the windmills and how the millers regulated the speed of the blades by adding or removing canvas coverings on the blades.  They were also able to move the top turrets where blades were attached by using a system of chains and posts or rocks on the ground.  The entire top of the mill could turn to catch the wind from any direction.  It really was a marvel of engineering in spite of very primitive tools and technology.

                The area of Kinderdijk is preserved as a United Nations UNESCO World Heritage site.  This is a special and coveted designation for tourism.  The UNESCO folks made a grand tribute to the ingenuity of the original builders of the dikes, mills, canal systems, and adjustable waterways.  I fully agree with the UNESCO tribute.  The entire operation is an amazing show of man’s ability to manipulate his environment to create a better place to live, to work, and to grow food.  I was duly impressed, but at the same time I couldn’t help noticing the double standard on the part of the UNESCO folks who blanch with horror at the thought of a modern community who would drain a swampy lowland and disturb a prized wetland.  The pendulum of prosperity and priority does swing to and fro through the ages.  Those primitive engineers would not be welcomed among today’s environmentalists.

                After a very pleasant tour, we reboarded our ship and began sailing for Cologne, Germany.  We enjoyed watching the many passing ships, and I took lots of photos in the area of Nijmegen, the Netherlands, which was the scene of much fighting during World War II.  The bridges over the Rhine were fiercely defended and fought over.  I stood on the top deck of the ship shooting photos and emailing them to Peter, who was online in his mission office in Brazil.  I truly marveled that the scene before my eyes was almost instantly in front of Peter’s eyes, many thousands of miles away.    What a miracle!

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